Borsch-Beetroot and cabbage soup
Winter on the farm is when the garden gives us its best brassicas and roots. Cabbages, beets, and carrots grow hearty and sweet in the cold, and they always find their way into borsch, a soup I think of as healing, nutritious, and endlessly comforting.
Borsch has its roots in Eastern Europe. Wherever you go, from Ukraine to Russia to the Caucasus, you will find a slightly different version. In Baku, where I grew up, it became a winter staple in almost every household. That is because Azerbaijan, like many countries in the region, was part of the Soviet Union. Recipes from Eastern Europe and Slavic kitchens traveled widely through the Soviet republics, settling into local food cultures. You can even find interpretations of some of favourite easter european dishes in parts of Iran and Turkey, a reminder of how food crosses borders and adapts.
I still remember the first time I made it. I was in grade ten or eleven. My mum was down with a terrible flu, resting on the couch. It is funny how couches turn into sick beds in so many homes, and it is the same in mine now. Wanting to be the caretaker, I decided to make her borsch. It was winter, cabbages and beets were plentiful, and it just felt like a right kind of soup to make.
These days, I make it with whatever we have on hand from the farm. Fresh cabbage and beets from the garden give the broth its colour and earthy sweetness. I also make my own sauerkraut, crunchy, tangy, and so good, and often add a few spoonfuls. It brings so much umami, almost a meaty depth, and it has become my little secret for a richer borsch.
Besides being endlessly comforting, borsch is beautiful to look at. When you lift the lid, the broth is ruby red, rich in colour and with the flavour of the winter garden. Served hot with fresh dill, a spoonful of garlicky sour cream, slice of rye bread and pickles on the side, it is pure comfort.
Make it with meat or simply vegetables, either way, borsch is always deeply nourishing.
Borsch-Beetroot and cabbage soup
Borsch is winter comfort in a bowl. Made with beets, cabbage, and a touch of sauerkraut for depth, it is hearty, bright, and nourishing, perfect for cold days.
Serves 6-8
Ingredients
500-600g pork ( I use pork rashers), diced into 2-3cm cubes
1 large brown onion, peeled and diced
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 tbsp olive oil
2 dark red medium size beetroots, peeled and cubed
2 medium size carrots, peeled and cubed 2 small potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 cup sauerkraut (strained)
2 tbsp tomato paste
6 cups stock
1 bay leaf
1 dried chilli or 1/2 tsp chilli flakes
1/2 cabbage cored thinly sliced
1 tsp salt or to taste
1/2 tsp freshly cracked pepper or to taste
1 tbsp chopped dill or parsley
Method
In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the pork cubes and cook until browned on all sides. Move to a plate and set aside.
Add the diced onion to the pot and crushed garlic. Saute until the onion is soft and translucent and the garlic is fragrant.
Stir in the beets, carrots, and potatoes. Cook for a few minutes until the vegetables begin to soften.
Add the strained sauerkraut and cook, stirring, for 3–5 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute.
Pour in the broth add the bay leaf and dried chilli. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20–30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.
Meanwhile, thinly slice the cabbage. When the vegetables are nearly cooked, add the cabbage to the pot. Stir well and cook for another 5–10 minutes, until the cabbage is wilted and tender.
Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.
Serve hot, garnished with fresh dill and a dollop of garlicky sour cream or plain yoghurt and bread.
